Ranting & roaring: Skiing Newfoundland’s Marble Mountain
Canada / Destinations / Experiences / Newfoundland / Outdoor adventures

Ranting & roaring: Skiing Newfoundland’s Marble Mountain

Like every Newfoundland driver I’ve encountered, Ralph MacWhirter zips along the island’s serpentine, snow-packed roads at speeds that mock posted limits and gives merely a passing nod to stop signs. Left hand on the wheel of his Buick Park Avenue Ultra and right hand gesturing, he turns to me, grins and asks: “Where ya to?” … Continue reading

A visit with Nova Scotia folk artist Barry Colpitts
Arts & Culture / Canada / Destinations / Experiences / Nova Scotia

A visit with Nova Scotia folk artist Barry Colpitts

EAST SHIP HARBOR, NOVA SCOTIA—It’s easy to find Barry Colpitts’s home gallery. Folk art adorns the house, lawn, barn, shed, fence, car, even the mailbox and truck. Hand-carved, two- and three-dimensional birds and fish, saints and sinners, mermaids and fishermen, augment every available surface. Even shutters, trim, railings, and newel posts have been transformed into … Continue reading

Fantasia in the skies: Northern Lights in Churchill, Manitoba
Canada / Destinations / Experiences / Manitoba / Outdoor adventures

Fantasia in the skies: Northern Lights in Churchill, Manitoba

It’s midnight, and it’s 44 degrees below — yes, below — zero. Celsius, Farenheit, it doesn’t matter; the scales meet at 40 below. At this temperature, silence is noisy. Snow squeaks, trees moan, ice creaks. I’m lying on frozen tundra swathed in layers of down, wool, and high-tech fabrics, cursing the cold. Then a glimmer … Continue reading

Making the ordinary extraordinary: Nova Scotia folk artists add pizzazz to daily life
Arts & Culture / Canada / Destinations / Experiences / Nova Scotia

Making the ordinary extraordinary: Nova Scotia folk artists add pizzazz to daily life

In Nova Scotia, Atlantic Canada’s not-quite-an-island province, folk art and its makers are aptly described as quirky, whimsical, spirited, and resourceful. Born of farming and seafaring traditions, folk art surfs the tide between functional and fanciful. The best works are playful, yet provocative; naïve, yet sophisticated; familiar, yet fresh. They share a common heritage, but … Continue reading

Falling for New Brunswick’s Miramichi, hook, line, and sinker
Canada / Destinations / Experiences / New Brunswick / Outdoor adventures

Falling for New Brunswick’s Miramichi, hook, line, and sinker

Before arriving in Sillikers, New Brunswick, I knew even less about the Miramichi River than I knew about salmon, which wasn’t much. During my one previous fly-fishing attempt, I’d landed branches, hats, even a nearby canoe, everything but a fish. That’s not something one brags about over scrambled eggs and sausage while sharing a table … Continue reading